To collimate the telescope it should be aimed towards a bright but not glaring surface such as a well lit pale painted wall or fabric in order to get a good image in the telescope and the Chesire should be arranged so that its shiny angled surface gets a good light. Cheshire Amazon For Astro Babys Guide to Cleaning and Center Spotting Telescope Mirrors Click Here In order to cover off all of the issues the guide is somewhat larger than some others on the web – many guides omit various details which can lead to confusion and frustration in the beginner. This guide may look scary – if you take it one step at a time its not that hard. The average mass produced telescope very often has a focuser that is too imprecise to make use of a laser. Lasers generally only work well in telescopes which have a high quality focuser with minimal ‘slop’. I have not covered collimation with a laser because my own experience has been lasers seem to create more problems than they solve as they also require collimation which isn’t always possible with some low cost lasers. You can make a collimation cap from a 35mm film container or buy them ready made. My own collimation cap is made from a focuser blanking cover with a small hole drilled through the exact centre. To accurately collimate with this guide you will need a Cheshire collimator and a collimation cap. Slow telescopes are usually at f6 – f7 or slower. The Sky-Watcher 200P has a focal length of 1000mm and a primary mirror diameter of 200mm so 1000 divided by 200 = 5 ( focal ratio ). You can calculate the focal ratio of your own telescope by the simply dividing the focal length by the diameter of the primary mirror. Where there are differences between a fast scope and a slow (high f number) scope I have provided text and pictures to highlight the differences.įast telescopes are typically of around f5 to f3 or even faster. This is a common enough fast reflector and the collimation process is essentially the same for any Newtonian telescope. The scope being collimated in these pictures is a Sky-Watcher 200P with an aperture of 200mm and a focal length of 1000mm (Focal Ratio f 5). I have included both diagrams to show you the ideal as well as pictures showing how it will actually look as beginners are often confused between the idealised views of a well collimated telescope and the views they are seeing with their own equipment. This guide will take you through the various steps towards perfect collimation. Review of the TAL 100RS 4″ Achromatic Refractor.Review of the Skywatcher Skymax 180 Pro Maksutov.Review of the Sky-Watcher 130PM & Celestron Eye-Opener Kit.Review of the Celestron 4SE GoTo Maksutov.Review of the Hotech Self Centering Laser Collimator.Orthoscopic Eyepieces – Back to the Future ?.New Kid in Town – The Explore Scientific 14mm 100′ Eyepiece.Finders Keepers – A Roundup of Finder Scope Options.Using an EQ Mount – Simple Polar Alignment for Beginners.Tuning up the Skywatcher/Orion Basic 1.25″ Focuser.8 – EQ6 Appendix – Development and Software Releases.7 – EQ6 Case Study and Shim Washer Considerations.5 – Worm Gear Adjustment, Motor Removal/Installation, Misc.Rebuilding the SkyWatcher EQ6/Orion Atlas Mount.7 – Appendix – Hardware and Software History.6 – Adjusting the Altitude Thrust Bearings.5 – Adjusting Worm Gear Engagement – Motor Gears.4 – Lubrication and Reassembly of the Right Ascension Axis.3 – Strip Down and Cleaning of the Right Ascension Axis.2 – Lubrication and Reassembly of the Declination Axis.1 – Strip Down and Cleaning of the Declination Axis.Rebuilding the SkyWatcher HEQ5/Orion Sirius Mount.Polar Aligning the SkyWatcher HEQ5/Orion Sirius Mount.Cleaning and Center Spotting Telescope Mirrors.
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